Bagan

Bagan is often referred to as Myanmar's Angkor, and it's not hard to see why. Not only are both temple complexes roughly contemporary (Bagan, 11th-12th century AD; Angkor, 10th-13th century), they also rival each other for sheer spectacle. Bagan provides a very different spectacle to Angkor, however. The site is impressive for the volume of its temples, none of which is on the scale of Angkor Wat, but which collectively present an amazing prospect. The most popular images of Bagan are of its spire-fringed skyline, dotted with innumerable pagodas, silhouetted against a setting sun. Viewed at a distance, Bagan's temples are staggering.

Bagan is a 25-sq-mile zone located 120 miles south of Mandalay, the nearest major city. Within the zone are over 3,000 Buddhist pagodas, most of them built during the 11th and 12th centuries, and very little else. The city of Bagan was abandoned during the 13th century, when the Bagan (or Pagan) Empire, threatened by Mongol invaders, moved its capital north to Mandalay. Now all that remains are the stone temples, an almost ghostly presence on the arid, windswept plains of Bagan. It is no wonder that many Burmese consider the plains to be haunted.

Its very remoteness is what makes Bagan so special, however. Unlike Angkor, visitors to the region are still few (though growing in number) and the area's chief settlements, the small towns of New Bagan and Nyaung-U, are situated on the perimeter of the 25 square mile zone. Most of the temples at Bagan receive very few visitors. Away from the hustle and bustle, and free of the hawkers and traders that attend similar sites in other countries, it really is easy to imagine as you explore the dilapidated temples of Bagan that you've stepped back a thousand years in time.

In and around Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan can be explored on foot, by vehicle (up to a point), bike, hot air balloon or even by wagon. The greatest difficulty is not deciding how to get around but choosing which, of the 3,000+ temples that dot the plains, to actually visit! Exploring Bagan at leisure and at your own pace is a certainly an option and can be a real pleasure - you can rent a bicycle or moped for a few dollars and set off along the dirt, and occasional tarmac, roads that link the temples - but it is a good idea to spend at least one full day with a guide covering the most significant temples. It's easy to get lost on your own.

What are the main sites? Ananda Pahto Temple, with its four standing Buddha statues, is the most important site in the region, and among the most striking temples. Also of note is Shwezigon Pagoda's golden stupa, the intriguing cruciform-shaped Ananda Temple, and Wetkyi-In Gubbyaukyi, a unique and beautiful cave temple with walls decorated with faded frescoes.

Shwesandaw, the sunset pagoda, draws perhaps the largest crowds, who arrive each evening to climb its stairs and watch the sun set over the plains from high. It can get very busy, so to avoid the crowds consider waking early and coming for the sunrise instead. Whether you rise early to watch the sunrise or stay for the sunset, the view of the Bagan temples casting long shadows over the plains is unforgettable.

From Bagan, it is also possible to visit Mount Popa. A 1,500m peak with an active Buddhist monastery on top, Popa is well worth the 50km journey from Bagan. You can climb the hill if you wish, but be warned, there are 777 steps to the top, and it's customary to climb barefoot!