Lalibela

Formerly known as Roha, the northern Ethiopian town of Lalibela is one of the country's holiest cities, second only to Axum. Like a fortress, it sits high in the basalt mountains of northern Ethiopia, where it has for over one thousand years served as a major stronghold and centre of worship for Ethiopia’s Orthodox Christian community. Unlike Axum, very nearly 100% of Lalibela’s population is Christian, and the town has become for many Ethiopians an important site of pilgrimage, its remote location and relative inaccessibility contributing to its appeal.

Unlike many temple sites of a similar character in other countries, Lalibela is still very much an active site of worship. Worshippers arrive at Lalibela throughout the year, though in the greatest numbers during the major religious festivals, when local pilgrims greatly outnumber foreign visitors.

Lalibela’s history is long and fascinating. The town was originally conceived of as a New Jerusalem, built in response to the capture of the real Jerusalem by Saladin’s armies in the late 12th century. Many of Lalibela’s historic buildings are named after, or designed to resemble, the monuments of Jerusalem. Its most famous structures, however, are distinctly Ethiopian creations. Like the older churches of Tigray, Lalibela’s monolithic rock churches are carved directly into the ground from the top-down, in a technique not practised anywhere else in the world. The Church of St. George (or Bete Giyorgis) is the most stunning example of this technique.

Though the exact age of the Lalibela churches is not agreed upon, most are thought to have been built during the reign of King Lalibela in the late 12th to early 13th century, with some thought to be even older. Within the town, there are 13 churches in total, assembled into two main groups and connected by a network of subterranean tunnels. Collectively, these churches are now considered a UNESCO world heritage site. But it’s important to remember that this is very much a living, breathing town, and not an historical relic. Nowhere in Ethiopia does the spirituality of its people echo louder than in Lalibela.

In and around Lalibela, Ethiopia
You can visit the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela throughout the year, but do keep in mind that tours can only take place with an Ethiopian guide—you cannot explore independently. The churches of Lalibela are divided into two main groups, both of which can be rushed around in a day as part of a guided tour, but we recommend that you try to spend at least two days in the region to allow more time to explore.

There are other sites of interest in Lalibela, many of them overlooked. Beyond the main monoliths, you’ll also find the twelfth-century church of Yimrehane Kiristos, which has been built into a cave in a similar fashion to the Gheralta rock churches; often skipped on guided tours of Lalibela, it's well worth taking a morning to visit this remote site. Also of note is the monastery of Asheton Maryam. A short journey from Lalibela, this isolated hill monastery can be reached on foot or by mule in what is a great half-day adventure.

Keen walkers will be excited to know that it’s possible to trek into the highlands surrounding Lalibela, following some of the old pilgrimage routes. It’s a much less popular area to trek than the Simien or Bale Mountains, but for those who really want to get off-the-beaten-track, it’s perfect. You can even build in some relatively easy 4,000m-plus mountain ascents (non-technical). We don't currently have any published itineraries that include trekking in Lalibela, but we can prepare a tailor-made tour on request - just ask.

Ethiopia is not known for its beautiful accommodation, but some of the country’s most unique lodges are located within the Lalibela region. Tukul Village is a charming small lodge where you sleep in traditional African rondavels, while the Mountain View Hotel is a stylish, minimalist lodge with a design as stark as the surrounding landscape.