Cambodia’s Northeast has traditionally seen very few visitors, but the recent opening of the border with Laos now ensures a steady flow of more intrepid travellers.
The gateway to this area is Kampong Cham, located on the Mekong River. Kratie, further north along the course of the Mekong, is a sleepy town whose waters are home to the rare freshwater dolphin, while Stung Treng is an important trading post owing to its proximity to the Laos border. Banlung, popular with trekkers, is a good base from which to explore the hills and remote villages of Rattanakiri province.
Mondulkiri province, with its capital Sen Monorom, is sparsely populated and covered in beautiful forests that stretch for many miles, concealing a number of beautiful waterfalls.
In and around North and East Cambodia
Only a few years ago this region was served by laterite roads that were impassable in the rainy season, meaning the only practical way to reach Stung Treng was by boat. Now the roads have been improved and towns that used to take days to reach from Phnom Penh are easily accessible.
Kratie is a small town right on the banks of the Mekong, perfect for breaking the journey to Banlung or the Lao border. It offers pretty views of the river against a rural backdrop (great sunset photos can be had)! The town has a bustling market, French colonial buildings, and offers a glimpse into the lifestyle of rural Cambodia. Head 20km north to Kampi to spot the freshwater dolphins that live there, though sadly dwindling in number and on the very brink of extinction.
Stung Treng, on a bank overlooking the confluence of the Mekong and Sekong Rivers, is just 40km from the Lao border. It’s a bit of a backwater, but often serves as a starting point for those exploring the area by boat. If visiting Stung Treng, try to find time to stop at the local silk-weavers, Mekong Blue, which is managed independently by the Cambodian Woman’s Development Centre.
Banlung is a hive of activity, where women from the region's many hill tribes come to sell their produce in the market. The countryside around the town is delightful, so head out in search of colourful birds, walk behind the veil of water at Cha Oung waterfall, go picnicking and swimming in a volcanic crater at Yak Lom lake, and experience the ‘gold rush’ at the Bokeo gem mines.
Mondulkiri sees fewer visitors than just about any other part of Cambodia, but those with the time and resolve to travel off the beaten track can explore some of Cambodia’s most remote settlements, whose residents come mainly from the local hill tribes. This is a place to rest and enjoy the scenery, explore the countryside at leisure, trek to nearby waterfalls (particularly Bou Sraa with its double drop), and mingle with the locals as they shop in the market.
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