Angkor and the Southern Coast

In the afternoon, embark on a tour of some of the earliest Khmer temples, what are collectively known as the Roluos. The Roluos date from the 9th and 10th centuries and, while not as immediately spectacular as the more famous temples of Angkor Wat and the Bayon, they provide a fascinating insight into early Khmer architecture, and will whet your appetite for the more dramatic sites to be visited over the coming days!

Angkor Thom, formerly the capital of the Angkor Empire, is a huge, walled and moated complex encompassing several structures, including the Bayon, Phimeanakas, and the Elephant Terrace. You'll likely recognise many of the sites from pictures of Angkor, notably the Bayon with its 37 face towers, almost as iconic as Angkor Wat itself.

Spend the morning exploring Angkor Thom at leisure. For lunch, you may wish to return to your hotel or head into town; it's best to avoid the midday heat in the summer, when it can get as hot as 45°C.

Late afternoon, begin your tour of the stunning Angkor Wat. You will need 4-5 hours to explore Angkor Wat in full. Your guide will be on hand to aid you in unpicking the temple's dense symbolism and many layers of meaning. Take things at your own pace and don't try to cover everything. In the early evening, find a comfortable spot to watch the sun as it sets over the temple.

Tiny Banteay Srei is often referred to as the jewel of Khmer art, on account of its intricate design and spectacularly detailed carvings. It differs from other Angkorian temples in that it is constructed entirely of pink sandstone, a soft stone which is easily carved, hence the detailed wall murals that cover almost every section of its walls.

Popularly known as the 'jungle temple', Ta Prohm is almost as iconic as Angkor Wat. In its state of slow decay, the temple provides a good idea of how most of the Angkorian temples would have looked when they were first discovered by French archaeologists in the late 19th-century. Only minimal restoration work has been done to the temple structures, which have become intertwined with the roots and vines of the jungle, lending them an atmosphere of romance and mystery.

In the afternoon you'll have the opportunity to take part in a blessing ceremony at a local monastery, during which you'll be sprinkled with holy water in a ritual intended to rid you of evil spirits (no guarantees). The ceremony is optional; you may prefer to spend the afternoon at Siem Reap's floating market or in visiting some of the temples not otherwise covered in your programme, of which there are many.

Late afternoon, relax with a Khmer massage before returning to your hotel. Evening at leisure.

Cambodia's second city, Battambang was founded in the 11th century, and is thus contemporary with Angkor Wat. Like Siem Reap, Battambang was at the very heart of the former Khmer Empire and boasts a number of temples which, despite being stunning in their own right, are overshadowed by those in nearby Siem Reap. Among the highlights are Wat Ek Phnom, an 11th-century temple built by King Suryavaman I, and Phnom Banon, notable for its magnificent sandstone towers and hillside location.

After checking in to your hotel, you'll have much of the morning and the afternoon to visit the Battambang temples in the company of your guide.

Designed to carry goods and people between Battambang and the surrounding villages, the rustic Bamboo train is a thrill, but don't expect a luxury ride; it consists of a few bamboo slats, four wheels and a tiny engine, and it moves at 15kmph—if you're lucky!

On arrival, you'll have time to explore the village at your own pace, including its workshops (wood carving is the local trade), rice paddies, and beautiful colonial-era homes, before heading back to your hotel in Battambang in the late afternoon. Evening at leisure.

You'll also have time to stop at Oudong, once the capital of Cambodia, and to explore the royal tombs at Fortune Hill.

Expect to arrive at your hotel in Phnom Penh, the present-day capital, late afternoon.

Together they provide a brutal but important insight into this dark period in Cambodia's long history.

In the afternoon, visit the capital's main attractions, including the Royal Palace, a curious mix of Eastern and Western design built in 1866 and still in use by the Cambodian royal family to this day; the Silver Pagoda, a spectacular temple complex rivalling Wat Phra Kaew in Thailand, and housing Cambodia's own Emerald Buddha statue; and Wat Phnom, the city's oldest shrine, dating back to 1373 (though it's been rebuilt multiple times since).

Time-allowing, you may also want to visit the limestone caves at Kampong Trach. Ask your guide if of interest.

Expect to reach Kep late this afternoon.

A former French colonial retreat, Kep is a pretty seaside town with an idyllic setting on the southern Cambodian coast, where it sits surrounded by mountains, forest, reefs and pristine beaches. Far from being a mega beach resort, the town receives very few visitors and centres on a single strip of restaurants and a small market. There is a public beach which is quiet except during the New Year festivities, and a small number of boutique resorts with private beaches, including the wonderful Knai Bang Chatt, where you stay this evening.

You may like to visit Kampot, a former French settlement located a short distance from Kep. Its attractive canal and faded colonial houses have made it a popular spot for a day trip, with a few hours spent strolling along the canal a pleasant way pass an afternoon. Visits to neighbouring villages and fruit orchards are also possible from Kep. Let your guide know in advance and they can help plan an excursions for you.

You'll enter the reserve via the Prek Tuk Sap estuary, and travel via boat through mangrove forest till you meet the sea. You'll have the early afternoon to explore the coast and forest on foot, and enjoy a cooked lunch on the beach, before meeting with your driver and continuing on to your beach hotel in Sihanoukville.

Sihanoukville is Cambodia's major beach resort. The city itself, which was mostly built in the 1950s, offers little in the way of historic attractions or culture, but its beaches are marvellous. Indeed, the Bay of Cambodia is widely considered one of the most beautiful in the world.

You might like to take a boat to a nearby island, especially if you intend to dive. Otherwise, the beaches at Sihanoukville are beautiful.

On arrival at Tatai you'll be taken by boat to the 4 Rivers Floating Lodge, or similar, where you overnight (full board).

Afternoon at leisure.

You'll stop at a local fishing community, where you'll be able to get a measure of day to day life on the river, and learn more about the region's different religious and ethnic traditions (this region is both Buddhist and Muslim; Khmer and Cham).

Return to the floating lodge in time for dinner.

Alternatively, if you are continuing on to Thailand as part of your itinerary, from Koh Kong it is a short journey to the Thai-Cambodia border.