For a long period one of Kenya’s most neglected National Parks, Meru NP has begun to undergo something of a resurgence in recent years, though it still rarely features on standard safari itineraries. For those who want to escape the crowds of Kenya’s busier reserves and parks, however, Meru has a lot to offer.
In the years after it was founded in 1966, Meru was one of Kenya’s more popular parks (helped by the story of Elsa the Lioness, as recounted in the book and film Born Free). It suffered heavily from poaching during the 80s and 90s, however, and visitors dwindled. But recent efforts to restore the wildlife stock have been successful, and it’s only a matter of time before Meru finds its way back onto the popular safari circuit. For now, those who visit have its unspoiled wilderness and increasingly prolific game largely to themselves – you won’t encounter any crowds here.
Though small compared to many of Kenya’s National Parks, the 87,000ha stretch of wilderness that makes up Meru encompasses a variety of habitats, from semi-arid bush and woodland to the tall grasslands and savannah plains that one tends to associate with East Africa. Several rivers run through Meru National Park and act as a magnet for wildlife during the dry season. They flow from the Nyambene Hills in the extreme north of the park, where the rainfall is higher and the temperatures cooler—the best camps are also found here, including Elsa’s Kopje.
Meru’s wildlife is as varied as the terrain, and increasingly plentiful. All of the big 5 are now present, including black and white rhino (there’s a rhino sanctuary, which covers close to one tenth of the park’s total area). So too are the big cats, though cheetah and leopard sightings are rare. Large buffalo herds can be seen, alongside giraffe, waterbuck, gazelle, zebra, elephant and, in the rivers and pools, crocodile and hippo.
In and around Meru National Park, Kenya
With only a small number of visitors, Meru doesn’t offer a huge range of safari camps, but those it does have manage to stand out—Offbeat Meru and Elsa’s Kopje are among our favourite places to stay in Kenya. Both are located in private concessions outside the National Park proper, and offer excellent walking safaris alongside the usual 4x4 game drives.
Try to visit Meru National Park during the dry season. More than most parks, the tall grasses make game-viewing difficult during and just after the rains, which also cause the swamps in the north of the park to become inaccessible.
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